Thread count is the number of threads — warp and weft combined — woven into one square inch of fabric. For cotton bed linen, anything between 200 and 400 is genuinely good. Above 400 the number stops telling you much, and above 800 it is usually a marketing figure rather than a measure of quality.
That is the short answer. Below is the longer one: what the number actually counts, what each range on a label really means, how thread counts get inflated, and why the weave and the yarn tell you more about a sheet than the number printed on the packaging.
What thread count actually measures
A woven fabric is made of two sets of threads. Warp threads run lengthways down the loom; weft threads are passed across them. Thread count adds the two together within one square inch: a fabric with 110 warp and 110 weft threads per inch has a thread count of 220.
So the number is a measure of density — how tightly the cloth is packed — and nothing else. It says nothing about the fibre, nothing about how long the cotton staple is, nothing about how the threads are interlaced, and nothing about whether the fabric was finished with softeners that wash out after a month. Those are the things you actually feel.
Thread count chart: what each number really means
Thread count
What it usually means
How it feels
Under 180
An open, economy weave
Thin and a little coarse; tends to show wear early
180–200
Standard household and hotel linen
Crisp, hard-wearing and very breathable. Perfectly good if the cotton is good
200–300
The sweet spot for cotton bed linen. Our own fabrics sit here
Cool and smooth in a percale weave; soft with a light sheen in a sateen weave
300–400
A finer, denser cloth, normally long-staple cotton
Noticeably soft and slightly heavier, with a little less airflow
400–600
Genuinely dense — or genuinely inflated. Both exist at this number
Heavy and warm, and slower to dry after washing
600–800
Almost always multi-ply yarn counted as several threads
Dense and warm; can feel slick rather than soft once finished
800, 1000 and above
A marketing number. Weaving that many genuine single threads into an inch of cotton is barely physically possible
Frequently less breathable than a 200-count sheet costing a third as much
So what is a good thread count?
For cotton bed linen, 200 to 400. Within that range, pick by weave rather than by number.
Our organic cotton percale fitted sheets are woven at 220 threads and weigh 132 g/m². Our organic cotton satin fitted sheets are woven at 276 threads and weigh 120 g/m². Both are made in Portugal, and both sit deliberately in the middle of the useful range rather than at the top of a number that would cost you more and breathe less.
Why a higher thread count can actually be worse
Packing more threads into the same square inch leaves less space between them, and that space is what air moves through. A very densely woven sheet holds heat against you, which is exactly what you do not want in summer — and the same density means a duvet cover takes noticeably longer to dry on the line.
Density also cannot rescue poor raw material. Cotton with a short staple length produces a thread that stays slightly stiff no matter how tightly it is woven, so a 600-count sheet made from mediocre cotton can feel worse against the skin than a 200-count sheet made from good cotton. If you sleep warm, our percale bed linen is the one to choose: the tight plain weave is what makes it crisp, and the moderate count is what keeps it breathable.
How thread counts get inflated
The most common trick is ply. A thread can be spun from a single yarn, or from two, three or four yarns twisted together. A single-ply thread should be counted once — but some manufacturers count each yarn inside it separately, so a fabric with 300 real threads per inch is sold as 900. This is how the four-figure numbers on discount bedding are produced.
Ply is also a quality signal in its own right. A yarn long and strong enough to be spun and woven on its own is better cotton than one that has to be twisted together with others to hold up. Single-ply threads make a lighter, softer cloth; multi-ply threads make a heavier, rougher one.
The second figure worth knowing is cotton count, written Ne, which measures how fine the yarn itself is — the higher the number, the finer the thread. Our satin is woven with a cotton count of 60, a fine yarn, which is why 276 threads produce a fabric that is lighter than the percale rather than heavier.
The weave matters more than the number
How the threads are interlaced changes the feel of a fabric far more than a few dozen threads either way.
Plain weave — percale
Each weft thread passes alternately over and under each warp thread, like a chessboard. Both faces of the cloth look identical, and the structure is exceptionally stable, which is why plain weave is the standard for bed linen. This is the weave that makes percale crisp, matte and cool.
Satin weave — sateen or atlas
The weft thread passes under one warp thread and then over several. That leaves long floats of thread lying on the surface, which is what produces the smooth hand and the soft sheen. It takes more skill to weave, which is part of why sateen usually costs more than percale of the same fibre. Watch this short video to see why our satin is naturally soft and breathable.
Twill weave
The weft passes under one warp thread and over two, producing the diagonal ribbing you see on denim. Curves and patterns are easier to weave into twill, but it is less stable than plain weave, so it is more common in clothing than in bedding.
Panama weave
A plain weave that uses several warp and weft threads side by side instead of single ones. The result is robust and hard-wearing, and it suits thicker fibres — more of a furnishing fabric than a sheet.
Percale or sateen: our two fabrics compared
Organic cotton percale
Organic cotton satin
Weave
Plain weave
Satin (atlas) weave
Thread count
220 threads
276 threads
Weight
132 g/m²
120 g/m²
Feel
Fresh, natural, slightly matte
Soft, silky, slightly glossy
Organic cotton
✓
✓
GOTS label
✓
–
Colours
White, beige, grey, teal
Undyed écru
Compatible mattress thickness
Up to 30 cm
Up to 26 cm
Our percale is GOTS-certified from field to finished product. Our satin is made from certified organic cotton; because the facility that sews it is not GOTS-certified, we do not claim the label for this product.
Not in any useful sense. Thread count is a cotton measure, and applying it to linen — the fabric woven from flax — is misleading, because flax fibres are considerably thicker than cotton ones. A good linen sheet may have a thread count somewhere around 80 to 150, and that low number is a property of the fibre, not a sign of poor quality.
Linen is judged by weight instead, in grams per square metre; bedding linen typically falls somewhere between 150 and 200 g/m². If you see a linen sheet advertised with a high thread count, treat it as a sign that the seller is borrowing a cotton number for its marketing value. Our own bed linen is cotton, not flax, which is why we quote a thread count for it at all.
Frequently asked questions about thread count
What is thread count?
Thread count is the number of threads, warp and weft combined, woven into one square inch of fabric. It measures how densely the cloth is woven and nothing else.
What is a good thread count for bed sheets?
Between 200 and 400 for cotton. Below 180 the weave is loose; above 400 the number tells you less and less, and above 800 it is usually inflated by counting multi-ply yarns separately.
Is 220 thread count good?
Yes. 220 is a solid, breathable density for cotton bed linen and it is what we use for our organic cotton percale. In a plain weave it gives a crisp, cool, hard-wearing sheet.
Is a 1000 thread count sheet better than a 200 thread count sheet?
Usually not. Weaving 1000 genuine single threads into one inch of cotton is barely physically possible, so the figure is nearly always reached by counting the individual yarns inside multi-ply threads. The result is often denser, warmer and less breathable than a well-made 200-count sheet.
What does 240 TC or 360 TC mean on a label?
TC is simply an abbreviation of thread count, so 240 TC means 240 threads per square inch. Both figures sit in the range where cotton bed linen performs well — but check whether the maker states the ply, because a 360 TC made of three-ply yarn is really a 120-count fabric.
Does linen have a thread count?
Not meaningfully. Flax fibres are much thicker than cotton, so linen sheets have far lower thread counts — roughly 80 to 150 — without being lower in quality. Linen is judged by weight in g/m² instead.
Does a higher thread count make sheets warmer?
Yes. More threads in the same square inch means less space between them for air to pass through, so a densely woven sheet traps more heat and takes longer to dry after washing.
What thread count should a duvet cover have?
The same range as a sheet: 200 to 400. Our percale duvet covers are woven at 220 threads, which keeps them light enough to dry quickly and breathable enough for summer.
In short
Thread count is worth glancing at and not worth obsessing over. Once a cotton fabric is somewhere between 200 and 400 threads per square inch, what decides how the sheet feels is the length of the cotton staple, whether the yarn is single-ply, and which weave it is woven in. A brand that tells you all three — rather than one large number — is telling you something real.
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